1 - The original piece in this example is a sculpted prop severed head. The piece is sculpted out of a non-sulfur clay.

2 - A clay wall is placed on the sculpture, dividing it in half.

3 - The piece and surrounding clay wall are sealed with clear acrylic spray and left to dry.

4 - After the acrylic spray dries, Sonite Wax® release agent is brushed onto the sculpture and clay wall.

5 - Shell Shock® is measured 1A:4B by volume.

6 - Shell Shock® is mixed thoroughly for 30 seconds.

7 - The first coat of Shell Shock® is ‘stippled’ onto the surface of the sculpt and the clay wall.

8 - The first layer of Shell Shock® is left to cure for approximately 30 minutes.

9 - A second batch of Shell Shock® is measured and mixed thoroughly.

10 - The second coat of Shell Shock® is applied on top of the first coat.

11 - The second layer of Shell Shock® is allowed to cure for approximately 30 minutes.

12 - Plasti-Paste® is measured 1A:3B by volume

13 - The Plasti-Paste® is mixed carefully and thoroughly.

14 - A coat of Plasti-Paste® is applied to the entire surface. The Plasti-Paste® will bond to the Shell Shock® and help to provide extra strength.

15 - It is easy to build up a thickness of 3/8”(1 cm) by using Plasti-Paste® in combination with Shell Shock®

16 - A second batch of Plasti-Paste® is measured 1A:3B by volume and mixed thoroughly.

17 - The second coat of Plasti-Paste® is applied on top of the first coat.

18 - After the Plasti-Paste® cures for 90 minutes, the soft clay wall is removed.

19 - A clay pour spout is placed on the exposed Plasti-Paste®, on the surface of the sculpture.

20 - The piece and surrounding clay wall are sealed with clear acrylic spray and left to dry.

21 - After the acrylic spray dries, Sonite Wax® release agent is brushed onto the sculpture and clay wall.

22 - Shell Shock® is measured 1A:4B by volume and mixed thoroughly for 30 seconds.

23 - The first coat of Shell Shock® is ‘stippled’ onto the surface of the sculpt and exposed Shell Shock® wall.

24 - The first layer of Shell Shock® is allowed to cure for approximately 30 minutes.

25 - A second batch of Shell Shock® is measured and mixed.

26 - The second coat of Shell Shock® is applied on top of the first coat. More fluid strokes can be used on this coat of material.

27 - A batch of Plasti-Paste® is measured 1A:3B by volume.

28 - The Plasti-Paste® is mixed throroughly for 2 minutes.

29 - The second coat of Plasti-Paste® is applied on top of the first coat.

30 - The second coat of Plasti-Paste® Is allowed to cure overnight for maximum rigidity.

31 - After the mold is completely cured, a screwdriver is used to CAREFULLY separate the two halves

32 - CAREFULLY separate the two halves.

33 - Excess clay is cleaned out of the mold using a wooden stick.

34 - The mold is now prepared for creation of the core. The core will be made out of Smooth-Cast® 320 resin. Ure-Fil® 3 will be added to reduce cost.

35 - A 1/2” thick layer of clay is laid into the mold.

36 - Both halves are lined with 1/2 inch thick layer of clay.

37 - The mold is bolted closed with the clay inside, placed in a container and leveled.

38 - Registration notches are drilled around the edge using a countersink bit.

39 - A clay wall is built to contain the Smooth-Cast 320 liquid plastic.

40 - The interior and exterior surfaces are sprayed with Universal Mold Release.

41 - Smooth Cast® 320 is measured 1A:1B by volume along with one part Ure-Fil® 3 filler and mixed.

42 - The Ure-Fil® will reduce cost and allow a larger casting

43 - The mixed material is poured in the mold, and fills the clay wall area.

44 - After the core is completely cured, the clay dam is removed

45 - The mold is opened, and the clay blanket is removed from the surface of the mold.

46 - Excess clay is washed off of the mold core, leaving a clean Smooth Cast 320 core casting.

47 - The core is placed inside the mold.

48 - The mold is bolted shut and turned upside down.

49 - The core is clamped in place. Hot glue is used to seal any gaps between the core and outer mold.

50 - Dragon Skin® silicone rubber is measured 1A:1B by volume.

51 - Silc-Pig® flesh tone pigment is added to the Dragon Skin® part B. The Dragon Skin® part A is combined with the Dragon Skin® part B and mixed thoroughly.

52 - The mold is turned upright and the Dragon Skin is poured SLOWLY into the pour spout. Working time is 20 minutes,

53 - The bolts are removed and the mold is GENTLY pried open with a screwdriver. The two mold halves are separated.

54 - The flashing is cut off, leaving a clean silicone casting.

55 - The silicone casting is removed from the core...

56 - ...and replaced in the Shell Shock® mold

57 - Flex Foam-iT! III is measured out 1A:2B by volume, mixed, and poured into the mold cavity.

58 - The demolded casting is ready for finishing.

59 - The casting is painted with Psycho Paint.

60 - Eyebrows are punched into the silicone.

61 - The finished casting has a realistic, flesh-like look.