1 - Build a containment box to accommodate the original. Spread a 1/2'' bed of non-sulfur clay along the bottom of the box.

2 - Place the original into the box. Build clay around the original until one half of the piece is embedded.

3 - Using clay sculpting tools, cut registration keys into the clay bed.

4 - Add additional keys. Keys help the two-part mold stay properly aligned from cast to cast.

5 - Spray Mann Ease Release® 200 over all surfaces where rubber will be poured.

6 - Weigh out Mold Max® 30 Part A. The appropriate mix ratio is 100 Parts A to 10 Parts B by weight.

7 - Weigh out Mold Max® 30 Part B.

8 - Dispense Part A into mixing bucket.

9 - Add Part B to mixing bucket.

10 - Thoroughly mix material until there are no color striations in the rubber.

11 - Vacuum degassing minimizes bubble entrapment in thick silicone rubber.

12 - Pour Mold Max® 30 in a long, thin stream over the original.

13 - Continue pouring until the highest point of original is covered with at least 1/2'' of silicone.

14 - Once the rubber has fully cured, remove the clay and place the block back in the box. Do not remove the original!

15 - Spray Mann Ease Release® 200 over the entire surface. This will allow the silicone to separate from itself.

16 - Mix and pour a new batch of rubber. The highest point of original should be covered with at least 1/2'' of silicone.

17 - Once the rubber has fully cured, remove the original model from the mold.

18 - Use adjustable straps to clamp the mold together. Wooden boards prevent the straps from deforming the rubber.

19 - C-1515® is a semi rigid urethane resin that is mixed 100 Parts A to 120 Parts B.

20 - Weigh out Part A.

21 - Weigh out Part B.

22 - Combine Parts A and B and mix thoroughly.

23 - Pour C-1515® into the Mold Max 30 mold.

24 - Once the resin has fully cured the mold can be peeled away from the reproduction.

25 - Finished casting is flexible and much safer for stage than the solid wood original.