Molding and Casting a Star Trek Klingon Disruptor Using Mold Max Silicone and Smooth-Cast Plastic
Running from 1987 to 1994, "Star Trek: The Next Generation" remains the most popular syndicated Sci-fi show in television history. Smooth-On rubbers, plastics, foams, etc. were delivered to the set of 'Star Trek - TNG' almost on a daily basis and were used to create a variety of special effects including making molds and castings of show staples such as space ships, themed environment elements and props. One of the more popular props created by effects artisans was the 'Klingon Disruptor' pistol used in both the TV show and Star Trek movies. Following the end of the series, these props remain at the top of collector's lists.
Reproductions of TV and movie props are in high demand on the collector's market. This tutorial outlines making a mold of a replica Klingon Disruptor pistol from the Star Trek television series.
There are a couple of challenges in this moldmaking application. The barrel of the gun has a 'pass through' where the rubber can flow through and fully encapsulate the end of the gun. A card stock shim will be used to eliminate this 'pass through'. Also, the shape of the gun would lead to a large amount of wasted rubber if a standard mold box were used. A 'spacer board' will help reduce the amount of wasted rubber in the mold box.
Once the final casting is sanded, primed and painted, it becomes an exact duplicate of a screen-used prop weapon.
1 - The original carved piece is primed and sanded.
2 - A hole is drilled in the handle to mount the piece.
3 - A matching hole is drilled in the base board.
4 - A piece of brass stock is cut to length.
5 - The brass stock is inserted into the hole in the handle of the gun.
6 - The brass stock in the handle is inserted into the hole in the base board.
7 - Super Instant epoxy is mixed.
8 - The epoxy is applied to the brass stock and base board.
9 - The gun is mounted for molding.
10 - A piece of card stock is measured to the length of the 'pass through' in barrel section of the gun.
11 - The card stock is cut.
12 - The card is folded into a 'V' shape.
13 - The card is inserted into the barrel and will work as a 'shim' to keep the rubber from flowing through the open section of the barrel.
14 - Super Instant epoxy is mixed.
15 - The epoxy is carefully applied to areas where the card 'shim' touches the barrel parts.
16 - A line is drawn, splitting the piece into two sections.
17 - This line (shown here highlighted in green) will be a cutting guide when demolding the piece.
18 - A box in constructed to contain the mold rubber and original model.
19 - A 'spacer board' is cut to size. This board is used to take up space, reducing the amount of wasted rubber.
20 - A height measurement is taken to determine the location of the 'spacer board' in the mold box.
21 - A length measurement is taken to determine the location of the 'spacer board' in the mold box.
22 - A line is drawn to indicate the location of the 'spacer board'.
23 - This line will reflect the location of screws for the 'spacer board'.
24 - The measurements are transferred to the edges of the mold box.
25 - The 'spacer board' is inserted into the mold box.
26 - Screws are used to attached the 'spacer board'.
27 - This cutaway view shows how the 'spacer board' takes up space in the mold box.
28 - Non-sulfur oil-based clay is used to seal interior seams.
29 - Non-sulfur oil-based clay is used to seal the bottom seam of the 'spacer board'.
30 - The box is placed over the model.
31 - Hot glue is used to seal the external seams.
32 - Mold Max 15T part A is dispensed into the mixing bucket.
33 - Mold Max 15T part B is dispensed into the mixing bucket.
34 - The Mold Max 15T silicone is mixed with a squirrell mixer on an electric drill.
35 - The material is vacuumed to remove excess air.
36 - The Mold Max 15T is poured into the mold box in a thin stream.
37 - The Mold Max 15T flows up and over the gun.
38 - The silicone is left to cure overnight (16 hours) at room temperature (73F 23C)
39 - After the material is fully cured, the box is disassembled.
40 - The sides of the mold box are removed and retained.
41 - The silicone is carefully cut open using a sharp knife.
42 - An assistant helps hold the mold open while the cutting continues.
43 - The original is carefully removed from the mold.
44 - The mold is gently powdered using standard talc to reduce surface bubbles.
45 - The mold box is reassembled around the rubber mold.
46 - The mold is placed at an angle to aid in air bubble reduction.
47 - Smooth Cast 320 is measured 1A:1B by volume.
48 - The Smooth Cast 320 is thoroughly mixed.
49 - The Smooth Cast liquid plastic is transferred to a smaller cup.
50 - The resin is very low viscosity and easily pours into the mold.
51 - The Smooth Cast 320 resin duplicate is removed from the mold.
52 - The 'flashing' around the edges of the casting is removed.
53 - This strong silicone rubber mold can be used to cast multiple duplicates.
54 - The casting is primed and painted.
55 - Masking tape is used to paint detailed areas of the casting.
56 - The piece is mounted to a display stand.
57 - A resin casting such as this can fetch hundreds of dollars on the collector's market.
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