1 - The original model is a glass beer bottle with the label removed. To contain the mold rubber, a cut line is marked 1'' over the top of the beer bottle on a cardboard mailing tube.

2 - A utility knife is used to carefully cut along the cut line.

3 - The tube is cut lengthwise to allow access to the interior.

4 - The glass beer bottle is hot-glued to the melamine baseboard.

5 - The bottle is held in place until the glue cools.

6 - Superseal is dispensed into a plastic cup.

7 - The Superseal is applied to the interior of the cardboard tube.

8 - We will use a small amount of a non-sulfur based clay for the next step.

9 - The clay is applied over the pour spout of the bottle, to create a seal.

10 - Important - Silicone rubber can bond to glass. A thorough coating of Ease Release 200 is applied as a separator.

11 - The tube is placed over the bottle.

12 - Care is taken to center the tube around the bottle.

13 - The tube is hot-glued to the melamine base board.

14 - The lengthwise cut in the tube is sealed with hot glue.

15 - The B component of a trial kit of Mold Max 30 silicone is pre-mixed and combined with part A.

16 - The A and B components are thoroughly mixed.

17 - The mixed material is poured into a clean bucket for a double mix and pour.

18 - This material is mixed using a new, clean mixing stick.

19 - The material is poured in a thin stream over the bottle, to a level of 1/2'' over the bottle's top.

20 - The Mold Max 30 silicone is allowed to cure overnight.

21 - After the silicone cures, the hot glue is removed from the cardboard tube.

22 - The cardboard tube is flexed to reveal the silicone mold.

23 - Using a razor knife, the silicone mold is carefully cut open 3/4 of the way down to a point where the rubber can be separated and the casting removed.

24 - The bottle is removed from the cut Mold Max 30 silicone mold.

25 - A registration notch is cut into the top mold.

26 - This notch will act as a registration point for the silicone core.

27 - The cardboard tube is replaced around the silicone mold.

28 - Rubber bands are used to hold the mold together tightly.

29 - Wax is melted in a 'hot pot' until it is liquid.

30 - The hot wax is carefully poured into the silicone mold and allowed to cool slightly.

31 - After approximately 1 hour, the excess wax is poured out, leaving a hollow wax coating or 'skin' casting on the inside mold cavity.

32 - After 1 hour, the wax has completely cooled and the cardboard support is removed from around the rubber mold.

33 - The wax skin casting of the bottle is carefully removed from the mold.

34 - Residual wax flashing is removed with a razor knife.

35 - The bottom of the wax is heated using a propane torch.

36 - This results in a smooth bottom on the hollow wax casting.

37 - The interior of the mold is sprayed with Ease Release 200.

38 - The wax casting is replaced in the mold.

39 - The cardboard tube is replaced.

40 - Rubber bands are again applied to hold the mold together tightly.

41 - The silicone surfaces are sprayed with Ease Release 200.

42 - Hot melt glue is applied to the top of the cardboard support to seal the cut and prevent liquid rubber from escaping.

43 - Mold Max 20 silicone is measured out.

44 - The mix ratio of Mold Max 10 is 100A:10B.

45 - The Mold Max 10 is mixed thoroughly.

46 - the mixed silicone is poured into a new, clean bucket.

47 - The material is mixed again, using a clean, new mixing stick.

48 - The Mold Max 10 is then poured into the hollow wax casting.

49 - The material is poured to the top of the tube, over the previous silicone.

50 - The rubber is allowed to cure overnight. Next day, the rubber bands are removed from the cardboard tube.

51 - The cardboard tube is removed.

52 - The Mold Max 10 core is carefully separated from the Mold Max 30 outer mold.

53 - Some Mold Max 10 may leak into the Mold Max 30 mold.

54 - The excess Mold Max 10 flashing is easily removed with a razor knife.

55 - The Mold Max 10 rubber core is separated from the hollow wax skin.

56 - A 1'' (2.5 cm) pour hole is cut at the top of the mold in the center.

57 - The hole gives access to the mold cavity for pouring the liquid SMASH! plastic.

58 - Prior to casting SMASH! Plastic into the mold structure, Universal Mold Release is applied to the rubber core. This release agent will give the finished SMASH! Plastic a gloss finish.

59 - The inside of the Mold Max 30 mold is also sprayed with Universal Mold Release.

60 - The outer Mold Max 30 mold is placed around the Mold Max 10 core.

61 - Rubber bands are used to hold the mold together.

62 - The SMASH plastic is measured 1A:1B by volume.

63 - So-Strong brown pigment is added to the part B of the SMASH plastic.

64 - The SMASH parts A and B are combined.

65 - The material is thoroughly mixed.

66 - SMASH plastic is poured into the mold in a thin stream, to reduce air bubbles.

67 - After curing for 90 minutes at room temperature, the SMASH! bottle is demolded.

68 - The Mold Max 10 core is carefully removed from the fragile SMASH casting.

69 - The bottom of the SMASH bottle is carefully sanded flat.

70 - The breakaway bottle is left to harden overnight to become fully brittle.

71 - Labels are adhered to the breakaway bottles. It is difficult to tell they are not the real thing!

72 - The bottle is ready to be smashed on stage or on screen.