1 - The original wound will be sculpted out of non-sulfur clay, on a plastic base.

2 - A small amount of clay is placed on the base.

3 - The detail of the fake wound is created using wooden tools.

4 - The edges of the clay sculpt are smoothed using a cotton swab.

5 - Clay is sliced into flat pieces using a metal scraper.

6 - The clay pieces are approximately 3/8'' thick.

7 - The flat pieces are cut into strips.

8 - Multiple strips will be used to construct a mold wall.

9 - The clay strips are pressed onto the surface of the plastic base.

10 - The clay wall creates a water-tight containment field.

11 - Vinyl gloves are worn for the remainder of the moldmaking process.

12 - Universal Mold Release® is sprayed onto all surfaces.

13 - Smooth Cast® 300 part A is pre-mixed by shaking the container.

14 - Smooth Cast® 300 part B is pre-mixed by shaking the container.

15 - Smooth Cast® 300 part A is dispensed into a small measuring cup.

16 - An equal amount of Smooth Cast® 300 part B is dispensed.

17 - The Part A of the Smooth Cast® 300 plastic is poured into a mixing container.

18 - Smooth Cast® 300 part B is added to the Part A.

19 - The liquid plastic is mixed thoroughly.

20 - The low viscosity Smooth Cast® resin is poured over the sculpt.

21 - After a few minutes, the Smooth Cast® plastic begins to cure.

22 - Smooth-Cast® 300 cures in 20 minutes, and the clay mold wall is removed.

23 - The resin mold is removed from the sculpt.

24 - The Smooth Cast® 300 captures excellent detail.

25 - A small amount of 99% isopropyl alcohol is poured into a cup.

26 - The alcohol is used with a brush to clean the remaining clay out of the resin mold.

27 - The edges of the mold are sanded smooth. Smooth Cast® 300 sands easily.

28 - The finished flat resin mold is clean and ready for silicone casting.

29 - Dragon Skin® FX-Pro® silicone is a 1A:1B by volume platinum cure silicone designed for skin effects.

30 - Dragon Skin® FX-Pro® part A is dispensed into a measuring cup.

31 - An equal amount of Dragon Skin® FX-Pro® part B is dispensed into a measuring cup.

32 - A small amount of Silc Pig® Flesh Tone pigment is added to the Dragon Skin® FX-Pro® part B.

33 - The Silc Pig® pigment is thoroughly pre-mixed into the part B.

34 - The Dragon Skin® FX-Pro® part A is poured into a mixing cup.

35 - The pigmented Dragon Skin® FX-Pro® part B is added to the part A.

36 - The silicone is thoroughly mixed.

37 - After 1 minute of mixing, the material is poured into a new cup (double mix and pour technique).

38 - The material is mixed again using a new stick. This ensures a complete mix.

39 - The mixed Dragon Skin® FX-Pro® is poured in a thin stream into the resin mold. No release is necessary.

40 - The excess silicone is scraped away using a wooden stick.

41 - The material is left to cure for 40 minutes.

42 - A small amount of talcum powder is dispensed.

43 - The back of the silicone appliance is powdered gently. This helps keep the piece from clinging to itself.

44 - The brush is used to help remove the silicone piece from the mold.

45 - The demolded piece has very thin edges, is translucent like skin, and is very flexible (Shore 2A hardness).

46 - A protective smock is placed on our model.

47 - The placement of the piece is tested by holding it up to the model's face.

48 - Equal amounts of Skin Tite® parts A and B are dispensed into a mixing cup.

49 - The Skin Tite® components are thoroughly mixed.

50 - A small amount of Skin Tite® adhesive is collected on a cotton swab.

51 - The Skin Tite® is applied in a thin layer to the model's skin.

52 - The edges of the piece are pressed down gently using the cotton swab.

53 - A small amount of 99% isopropyl alcohol is poured into a cup.

54 - A clean chip brush is cut down to create stiffer bristles.

55 - Alcohol activated makeup will be used to color the silicone piece and help the appliance match the skin of the model.

56 - A small amount of alcohol is applied to the brush.

57 - The alcohol-soaked brush is then placed in some red alcohol activated makeup.

58 - The alcohol activated makeup is translucent.

59 - The makeup is spattered onto the skin surface by 'flicking' the brush bristles.

60 - The makeup helps to blend the piece into the surrounding skin color.

61 - More red makeup is used to color the interior of the wound appliance.

62 - A small batch of Skin Tite® is combined with Silc Pig® Blood pigment.

63 - This pigmented Skin Tite® is collected on a cotton swab.

64 - The Skin Tite® is applied to the interior of the wound creating a 'wet blood' look.

65 - The finished appliance looks and moves like real flesh.

66 - A small amount of theatrical blood is applied to a fake knife.

67 - The effect is completed by pretending to slice into the model's skin.

68 - The appliance will hold to the surface of the skin for a very long time, often for hours.

69 - Removal is simple. First, the wound appliance is slowly peeled away.

70 - No adhesive remover is necessary.

71 - A makeup removal wipe is used to clean the alcohol activated makeup from the skin surface.

72 - Clean up is fast and easy.