1 - A plaster positive of the model’s face is backed with clay, both for support and as a mold making key.

2 - Mold Max® 30 silicone rubber will then be used to create a mold of the plaster/clay positive.

3 - The mix ratio for Mold Max® 30 is 100A:10B by weight. For this application 1,000 g of Part A is measured using an accurate gram scale.

4 - 100 g of Part B is also measured.

5 - Part A is poured into a larger mixing container.

6 - Part B is then added and mixed thoroughly, scraping the sides and bottom, until a uniform color is reached

7 - Thi-Vex® Silicone Thickener is added and mixed to allow the rubber to be brushable.

8 - A mold of the lifecast is made by brushing the Mold Max® silicone onto the surface of the positive; attaining a thickness of 3/8''. Allow to cure completely.

9 - Plasti-Paste® II will used to create a support shell. It is measured 1 part A to 2 parts B by volume, and applied as 2 layers; mixing each separately.

10 - Mix first application of Plasti-Paste® II thoroughly; scraping the bottom and sides as you mix.

11 - Apply a liberal layer of Plasti-Paste® II to the outside surface of the Mold Max® mold; covering the entire surface. While first layer is still tacky, mix and apply second layer.

12 - After second layer of Plasti-Paste® II has cured, two thin coats of EpoxAcoat® GREY epoxy will be used to create a hard epoxy casting in the Mold Max® mold.

13 - EpoxAcoat® GREY epoxy is mixed 100 parts A to 15 parts B. For this application 200 g of Part A is measured using an accurate gram scale.

14 - 30 g of Part B is also measured out.

15 - Parts A and B are then combined and mixed thoroughly; scraping the sides and bottom of the container.

16 - EpoxAcoat® Grey is brushed into the cured Mold Max® silicone mold. Once this layer is ''tacky hard'', mix a second layer and brush on over first layer.

17 - Free Form® Air epoxy dough is mixed thoroughly in equal parts by volume, until color of putty is uniform.

18 - While the second layer of EpoxAcoat® epoxy is still ''tacky hard'', the Free Form® Air is applied to provide support.

19 - Once cured, the epoxy casting is demolded from the Mold Max® mold, and prepared for the appliance sculpture.

20 - Clay is applied to the casting, then sculpted to create the zombie face appliance model.

21 - With face appliance sculpture finished on epoxy casting, apply Ease Release® 200 release agent. Allow to dry and repeat.

22 - EpoxAcoat® is mixed and applied to the sculpt to make a 2-part mold.

23 - Mix equal parts of Free Form® Air epoxy putty thoroughly and apply to the tacky surface of the EpoxAcoat® Grey for support. Let cure for 4 hours.

24 - After curing, carefully separate the epoxy shells and clean out initial clay appliance sculpture.

25 - Dragon Skin® FX-Pro® is used to create the surface layer for the facial appliance. The mix ratio of Dragon Skin® FX-Pro® is 1:1 by weight or volume.

26 - Silc Pig® Blood pigment is combined with Dragon Skin® FX-Pro® part B.

27 - Parts A and B are then combined and mixed thoroughly.

28 - A layer of Dragon Skin® FX-Pro® is stippled on the mold positive and negative using a disposable brush.

29 - 50g FX-Pro® Part A combined with 50g FX-Pro® Part B and 100g SLACKER® will produce a soft silicone gel.

30 - The Silc Pig® pigments are combined with Dragon Skin® FX-Pro® part B to simulate the flesh tone of the model.

31 - All of the material components are combined and mixed thoroughly.

32 - The material mixture is slowly poured into the mold in a thin stream to eliminate air bubbles.

33 - The parts are aligned and put together to sandwich the silicone appliance for proper curing.

34 - The 2-part mold is closed tightly and the FX-Pro® cures in 1 hour.

35 - After 1 hour, the mold is opened and the cured FX-Pro® piece is removed. The appliance is guided out of the negative mold using a brush and talcum powder.

36 - The finished FX-Pro® silicone appliance.

37 - Skin Tite® silicone adhesive is dispensed in equal parts and mixed thoroughly.

38 - Skin Tite® adhesive is applied to the face in preparation for the zombie appliance.

39 - The finished appliance is then carefully adhered to the face.

40 - Once the appliance is properly adhered to the model, it is time to finish the effect by adding makeup.

41 - To aid in blending, makeup is spattered onto the face and appliance using a chip brush.

42 - With the makeup complete, the final step is to fit the model with zombie contacts and rotted teeth.

43 - Our zombie is now ready for a night on the town.