1 - 19th century historical long rifle is going to be used to make museum-quality replicas of this important piece of American history.

2 - Sculptex®, a very malleable, low cost oil clay is used to make a dividing wall around the rifle.

3 - The clay is laid on either side of the rifle, bisecting it for making a two piece mold.

4 - A foam plug was made out of ear plugs to be placed inside the barrel to keep silicone from flowing inside of it.

5 - The foam plug will not damage the inside of the barrel and slightly expands to keep out the silicone.

6 - Small pieces of dowel are used for venting areas of the mold that could potentially trap air in the final casting.

7 - The dowel ''gate'' is placed at the highest tip of the hammer so air can escape back down the gun stock.

8 - Keys are cut into the clay with a Popsicle stick in order to register the two silicone halves when cured.

9 - Rebound® 25 will be used as the mold making rubber.

10 - Rebound® is dispensed 1:1 by volume.

11 - Rebound® is mixed in a clean mixing container to a even color consistency.

12 - The Rebound® is brushed directly onto the rifle and clay bed.

13 - Once the entire gun is covered in a layer of Rebound®, it is allowed to set up prior to adding the second coat.

14 - Thi-Vex® Silicone Thickener is used for subsequent layers to thicken the Rebound®.

15 - The Thi-Vex® added to the silicone makes the silicone thicker for building up key areas.

16 - The thickened silicone is applied to the gun and flange.

17 - Ice cube trays are filled with Rebound® 25 in order to create keys that will help register a support shell onto the silicone correctly.

18 - Two trays are filled partway to create these keys.

19 - Once cured, the ice cube shaped keys are placed on a tacky layer of silicone covering the gun.

20 - Additional silicone is used to cover the keys and secure them to the mold.

21 - The final layer of silicone is applied without Thi-Vex® and smoothed out over the length of the mold.

22 - Once fully cured, a straight edge is used to cut the edges of the rubber in order to make a nice clean mold.

23 - The razor knife cuts easily into the rubber providing a nice clean edge.

24 - The razor knife cuts easily into the rubber providing a nice clean edge.

25 - The finished first side ready for the first half of the support shell.

26 - Cardboard strips will be used as retaining walls for the application of the support shell.

27 - The cardboard is hot glued around the gun model.

28 - Free Form® Air will be used for the support shell, chosen for its light weight and durability.

29 - Equal parts of Free Form® Air are measured out by volume.

30 - Free Form® Air is mixed by hand.

31 - A rolling pin and Clay Board covered in aluminum foil will be used to roll out even thicknesses of the Free Form® Air.

32 - The Free Form® Air is spread across the board.

33 - Another layer of Aluminum foil is placed over the Free Form® Air then smoothed with the rolling pin.

34 - The Aluminum foil peels easily away, revealing a nice, even layer of Free Form® Air.

35 - The Free Form® Air is placed over top the Rebound® and the bottom piece of Aluminum foil is pulled away from the putty.

36 - The method is repeated until the whole mold is covered in a uniform layer of Free Form® Air.

37 - A gloved hand dipped in water will be used to smooth down the Free Form® Air to make a smooth, clean support shell.

38 - The addition of water evens out the putty, producing a finished look.

39 - Once, allowed to cure overnight, the cardboard walls are removed.

40 - Once the cardboard sides are removed, the model is lifted from the board in order to start the second half.

41 - The model is flipped over to expose the clay bed.

42 - The clay is removed from the model and Rebound®.

43 - All traces of clay are cleaned off in preparation of the second side of Rebound®.

44 - Ease Release® 205 will be used on the cured Rebound® to prevent the new layer from bonding. Ease Release® 205 was chosen so it can be carefully brushed on without affecting the gun.

45 - Using a brush makes application of the Ease Release® 205 easy.

46 - Rebound® is processed and applied in the same way it was on the first application of the mold.

47 - Rubber keys are once again placed on the curing Rebound® to help the mold rubber register inside the Free Form® Air shell.

48 - Once all the layers of Rebound® have been applied, the rubber is once again cut and the cardboard sides are reassembled around the model.

49 - Ease Release® 200 (Although the Ease Release® 205 used previously could also be used) is used to make sure that the new application of Free Form® Air will not bond to the first layer of Free Form® Air when trying to separate the two halves.

50 - A liberal coat of Ease Release® 200 is sprayed onto all surfaces.

51 - Free Form® Air is once again processed and laid on the second half of the mold rubber.

52 - Once the second layer of Free Form® Air had an overnight cure, the sides are once again pulled off and the model is lifted off the board in order to open the mold.

53 - The first half of the support shell is removed from the mold.

54 - The two Rebound® halves are then opened for the first time.

55 - The second half of the Rebound® mold is places back into its support shell.

56 - The mold is strong and light weight, the Rebound® has captured perfect detail of the original model.

57 - The mold halves are fitted back together and rubber banded in order to get ready for casting.

58 - The mold is placed into a bucket and objects packed around it in order to keep it upright for the casting process.

59 - Smooth Cast® 320 will be used for making the castings.

60 - Smooth Cast® 320 is measured out 1:1 by volume. No scales are necessary.

61 - The Smooth Cast® 320 is combined in a clean mixing container.

62 - The Smooth Cast® 320 is poured through a funnel into the mold.

63 - Once cured, the mold is opened and the casting revealed.

64 - The casting reflects perfect detail of the original model.

65 - The casting captured the character and detail of the original without doing any damage to the original antique!